Dawn on the Amazon Captain’s Blog

Pyramid Project, Iquitos Peru

Julian Haynes had an ayauasca vision; a floating pyramid across the river from Iquitos Peru. Now his vision is a reality. On June 2nd 2008 three boats with 40 HP motors towed the pyramid structure floating on balsa logs, to its permanent location. There is still a lot of work to finish but in spite of some predictions of disaster his structure proved strong enough to tow. Well done Julian. To learn more about this interesting project check out the web sites http://www.pyramidperu.com/ and
http://www.pyramidperu.com/Tours_Iquitos

I took this photo from my computer chair. That is Dawn on the Amazon III to the left, and Edson is in Dawncita helping push the pyramid away from my boat.

Pyramid Project, Iquitos Peru

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The History Channel Films Iquitos Peru

The History Channel emailed me about providing support for a documentary they were planning to film about Iquitos Peru. I immediately started brushing up on pre-Incan and Incan Andean trade with the rainforest indigenous, Francisco Orellana “discovering” the Amazon River, the rubber boom era, and the wars.

Then Amanda Mears, the producer, called and told me they planned to film The Ancient History of Shamanism, Ayauasca, and How it Relates to Modern Tourism in Iquitos Peru.

They met a shaman, went with him into the jungle, harvested and prepared the ayauasca vine and other natural medicines, brewed the ayauasca tea, participated in an ayauasca ceremony, and filmed the whole sequence.

They also filmed a short segment from Dawn on the Amazon III as we cruised slowly past the Iquitos water front and the floating village of Belen. The next day they photographed the Butterfly Farm.

The history of Shamanism and the use of ayauasca is a fascinating subject for a documentary. I look forward to watching it. I am curious if they will use the more accurate term curandero, or vegetalista, instead of Shaman. Probably not; the word shaman has instant international recognition.

The History Channel film crew had an amazing experience in Iquitos that they will never forget. I expect them to come back some day.

The History Channel Films Iquitos Peru

Bill Grimes, President, Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises—Welcome to Iquitos Peru

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Beer Drinkers Guide to Iquitos Peru

This guest post by Michael Collis, editor of the Iquitos Times

Bill you have reviewed the food now I have done the beer! Ask your readers to comment on their favorite beer in Iquitos.

Boozers Guide to Iquitos,Peru

I have lived in Iquitos, Peru for 10 years and am considered by some as an expert on local beers. In Iquitos we have 5 brands of Peruvian beer on sale. They are;

1. Pilsen
2. Cristal
3. San Juan
4. Iquiteña
5. Cusqueña

For more than 9 years my favorite tiple was Pilsen, that was until about 3 months ago when I tried the Iquiteña Extra which is a delicious full bodied beer brewed here in Iquitos. The Iquiteña brewery opened about 3 years ago and their first beer was undrinkable so they developed the new beer Iquiteña Extra which I must admit is definitely the best beer here in Iquitos and probably in Peru. Being brewed here also means that it does not contain additives that preserve the beer in the tropical climate. The cheapest place to buy a beer or 2 is out from downtown Iquitos where you can get 3 bottles of beer (650 milliliter per bottle, one and a third pints) for only 10 Peruvian soles (about $3.50 US). The cheapest beer in downtown Iquitos can be found at Latidos Bar on the waterfront boulevard at only 4 soles for a large bottle . Most other bars and restaurants charge between 5 and 6.5 soles per bottle.

Enjoy your stay in Iquitos but remember alcohol taken in excess can be harmful to your health.

Leave a comment to let us know, what is your favorite beer to drink in Iquitos?

Beer Drinkers Guide to Iquitos Peru

Guest post by Michael Collis, Iquitos Times

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Hotels of Iquitos Peru; Reviews, Rates, Recommendations

I am asked for recommendations about hotels in Iquitos Peru nearly every day. This article should be a valuable resource for travelers to Iquitos. I have listed the benefits and the prices of the hotels I recommend.

Prices range from $5 to $250, and fluctuate with the exchange rate, the season, promotions, supply and demand, and sometimes the whims of the owners.

At some hotels, you can negotiate a discount. It won’t hurt to ask. The lowest rates can usually be negotiated from November to May.

A lot of this information comes from my personal experiences and opinions, from the experiences and opinions of my friends, and from guests who have stayed at the hotels reviewed here.

If a hotel or hostel is in this list you can consider it a recommendation within the hotel’s price range and your budget. If the price is under $20 do not expect hot water and air conditioning. If you require hot water and air conditioning you will not be happy with the low price choices. If you are on a tight budget, you will not be happy with the El Dorado Plaza, or the Victoria Regia. Please choose accordingly. Don’t say, “I can not believe Bill recommended this hotel. It doesn’t have a pool.”

I love Iquitos Peru, and want to share that love with you. I always recommend my guests schedule at least one day in Iquitos before their Amazon cruise or Jungle Cabin adventure and at least one day after we return. That usually means hotel rooms. If you choose Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises for your Amazon adventure, we will make the reservations at the hotel of your choice for you.

The Iquitos Peru Hotel Reviews, Rates, Benefits, and Recommendations

Listed by price, not strength of recommendation

El Dorado Plaza, Napo #252, $150 single, $180 double or matrimonial, $250 Junior suite, the only 5 star hotel in Iquitos, very nice, excellent breakfast, fancy swimming pool with fountain, and water fall. Well located on the Plaza de Armas, one and a half blocks to the river and boulevard, two blocks to our Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises office. The El Dorado Plaza is the best and most expensive hotel in Iquitos. Airport pick-up and delivery included. I like Francisco Grippa’s art on display in the lobby.

El Dorado Hotel, Napo #362, $ 73 single, $83 double, sister hotel to the El Dorado Plaza, continental breakfast and airport pick up included. A half block to the Plaza de Armas, two and a half blocks to the river and boulevard. I stayed here. I like the swimming pool and Francisco Grippa’s art on display in the lobby, but I consider this hotel to be over priced. Be sure to negotiate a discount.

Victoria Regia, Ricardo Palma #252, $66 single, $77 double, $90.20 junior suit $127.60 Deluxe Suit. Well run, arguably the best hotel over all for the price, comfortable rooms, air conditioning, hot water, nice swimming pool, buffet breakfast, complimentary airport pickup and delivery, fairly quiet, but not as well located, 8 blocks from the Plaza, 10 blocks from the Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises office, 4 blocks from the river and boulevard. I have stayed here many times. It is the best hotel in Iquitos for the price.

Acosta, Huallaga # 254, $44 single, $55 double, same family owns and operates it as the Victoria Regia, very well run, air conditioning, hot water, beautiful lobby with fresh bouquets, continental breakfast, complimentary airport pick up, noisy, ask for a room in the back, two blocks from the Plaza de Armas, 4 blocks from our office, 3 blocks from the river and boulevard. I have had friends stay here. The rooms are comfortable. I like the lobby décor, the heliconia and ginger bouquets. It might be the best hotel for the price if a swimming pool is not important to you.

La Casa Fitzcarraldo, Avenida La Marina #2153, not really a hotel, rather a large famous house with possibly the best pool and jungle garden in Iquitos. It is certainly the only place with a three story tree house. It is the house that Warner Hertzog and Walter Saxer bought for a home base to produce the most famous movie made in Iquitos, Fitzcarraldo, considered by many to be the most difficult movie ever made. Marmelita and I lived here for several months. There are a lot of good things about La Casa Fitzcarraldo, but it is a 10 minute moto-kar ride from the Plaza de Armas and our office. If getting away from the hustle and noise of the city center sounds good to you, I recommend it. Cost $44.

Hotel Marañon, Located on the corner of Fitzcarrald and Nauta # 285-289, $36 single, $44 double or matrimonial, $56 triple, air conditioning, hot water, swimming pool, continental breakfast, airport pick-up. Well located two blocks from the river and boulevard, one block from the Plaza de Armas, rooms on the street side are noisy; rooms facing the pool are quieter. Arguably the best value, considering the pool, location, and price. Reservations recommended.

Hotel Doral Inn, Raymondi #220, $35 single, $45 double, $60 triple, includes continental breakfast and pick up from the airport. The top floor is an observation tower, the floor below is a roof top patio occasionally used for parties. The lobby and rooms are small; the rooms to the back are quieter. Well located a block and a half from the Plaza de Armas and the boulevard.

Hotel Safari, Napo #118, $32 single, $45 double or matrimonial, price includes continental breakfast. The Safari is only a few yards from the boulevard, and one block from the Plaza de Armas. The matrimonial rooms have a view of the river. The Safari was completely remodeled in 2006-2007, so it is practically new.

Hotel Ambassador, Pevas #260, $24 single, $37 double or matrimonial, $49 triple, includes continental breakfast. I do not have any personal experience with the Ambassador, but a friend of mine always stays there and likes it, so I include it on his recommendation. The Ambassador is two and a half blocks from the Plaza de Armas, and the boulevard.

Hostal El Colibri, $13 single, $16 matrimonial, private bath rooms, safe, clean, affordable, fairly quiet, well located, you can choose to pay extra for hot water, and air conditioning, no complimentary breakfast. El Colibri is located right around the corner from the Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises office, half block from the river, and boulevard, one block from the Plaza de Armas. I frequently recommend this hostel to my guests.

Hospedaje La Pascana, Pevas # 133-A, $11 single, $15 double, $18, triple. Well located on a quiet street that ends at the river. Three blocks to the Plaza de Armas, two blocks from the Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises office, and the boulevard. The two best features are the quiet tropical garden every room faces and opens on to, and the nice family who owns the hostel. They will help you with nearly everything you will need. I lived here for several months. If you are on a budget, and are staying for a month or more ask for the monthly rate, it is a small discount that helps makes La Pascana a good choice.

Hobo Hideout, Putumayo # 437, budget alternative three blocks from the main square. The rooms to the back are the quietest, $7 dormitory bed, $13 double, $18, matrimonial. The Hobo Hideout is a good choice for outdoors people, fishermen and hunters on a budget. The décor tends toward a hunter’s den, with pet parrots and macaws, snake skins, animal hides, trophy fish, etc.

Mad Mick’s Trading Post and Bunkhouse, #163-202 Putumayo, up the stairs, $5 bunk bed, dormitory style. Well located a half block from the Plaza de Armas, half block from the river and boulevard, two blocks from the Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises office. I know this place well. Mad Mick’s is the most secure place to stay on a tight budget. Be sure to bring your own lock for the security box. Mad Mick is actually Mike Collis, owner and editor of the Iquitos Times

There are many more hotels and hostels that are not mentioned here, either because I do not know them, do not like them, or because I do not consider their location to be favorable for most travelers.

I stayed at the Real Iquitos over a decade ago. It has fallen on hard times, but is still an interesting place, with huge rooms, a view of the river, and a great location.

I lived at the Posada Del Lobo, Cabo Pantoja 417, for six months. It has a nice pool, friendly staff, nice owners, but is a 10 minute moto-kar ride from the city center.

The Parthenon and the Sol de Oriente are both fine hotels but not well located for most travelers. They have excellent swimming pools. The Sol de Oriente is the best hotel near the airport, and makes a good choice if your flight is delayed or canceled.

Posado Del Lobo, Oro Verde, Amazonas, Real Iquitos, Anaconda, Europa, Sandalo, Copoazu, Jhuliana all have their loyal guests.

I invite you to share your opinions and experiences about the hotels of Iquitos with us in the comments below this article.

I will update this article periodically as prices change and with new additions to the recommended list as you convince me with your comments.

Hotels of Iquitos Peru; Reviews, Rates, Recommendations

If you found this article to be valuable, and you have not done so already, please subscribe to my RSS feed to make sure you do not miss future articles that might help make your stay in Iquitos Peru more enjoyable and productive. Thank you.

Bill Grimes

Here are more links where you will find value;

Bill’s and Marmelita’s Favorite Restaurants in Iquitos, Peru

Navigating the Lima Airport and Arriving in Iquitos Peru

Geographic and Climatic Data for Iquitos Peru

Peruvian Cuisine with Dawn on the Amazon

To Answer the Questions You Should Ask Before Booking a Jungle Adventure

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Our Amazon Tour to the Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru

I found something for you. I wish you and everyone that comes to Iquitos Peru could spend one day full of fun and future memories at the Amazon Animal Orphanage and Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm. The biggest benefit for you would be to see and feel, and smell a lot of what you came to the Amazon hoping to see, and feel and smell in the first place. Let’s take an Amazon tour to the Butterfly Farm and let me show you what I mean.

You will find the Butterfly Farm in a beautiful barely tamed jungle setting with a riot of flowers, birds, monkeys, and yes of course, butterflies. As you hike the jungle trail, heliconias, ginger, and orchids are blooming, brushing up against you. Six species of Monkeys are climbing in the trees overhead. Two of the tamest monkeys, Junior and Tony want to climb on you.

That is what we discovered when Captain Bill Blaesing arranged an Amazon tour with us a few days ago. The deal was to use Dawn on the Amazon III for a full day trip with 11 of his friends as long as he was allowed to pilot “that beautiful boat”. From Captain Bill to Captain Bill, “Shake on it Bill, it’s a deal.”

Bill and I talked over several of our options and he decided we should also visit the Yagua indigenous village, watch for pink dolphins, and go swimming. He thought chicken would be good for lunch. When our day trip guests take the half priced Dawn on the Amazon I, the day trip comes with a nice picnic lunch, but when our guests charter Dawn on the Amazon III, it comes with a feast worthy of Thanksgiving. We planned a special day.

On the way to the Butterfly Farm a boy from one of the families told me “This day is very important for me.” That is a good attitude to bring on an Amazon tour.

When is a Butterfly Farm more than a Butterfly Farm?

A Butterfly Farm is more than just a butterfly farm when it is also an Amazon animal orphanage, a botanical garden, and an educational center. There are few places you can go to learn more about the rainforest eco-system than to the Amazon Animal Orphanage and Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm.

We learned how each butterfly species has one host plant species that it lays eggs on so that the larva can hatch right on the only food source to sustain its life cycle. The florescent Blue Morpho larva is brown and green to provide camouflage against predators. Some larvae are capable of releasing a foul smell to discourage predators. A few sting with poison. The coloration of the Owl Butterfly with a two large false eyes are useful to either frighten or confuse small birds that might attempt to to prey on it.

The beautiful and huge jaguar Pedro Bello lives in a very large cage with trees and jungle vegetation growing so thick we could not see him until he came to eat some meat. We learned the jaguar has the most powerful bite of any feline, powerful enough to bite through the protective armor of a turtle shell.

We learned that the tapir is related to the rhinoceros, and that petting and feeding a tapir is a nice experience. The tapir eats 80 pounds of fruit and vegetation per day.

We were surprised at how long and sticky the anteaters tongue is, and that its claws are very powerful for prying open rotten logs to eat the ants that live in the logs.

We saw that the Wattled Jacana toes are so long it can walk on floating vegetation.

That is only a small part of all the interesting things we learned. Every time I go to the butterfly farm I see and learn something new.

Captain Bill Blaesing was suitably impressed to leave a nice donation for Gudrun Sperrer, the owner of the Butterfly Farm, to help take care of the animals. Gudrun is one of my best and most interesting friends in Iquitos. She asked if we had room for one more passenger. Gudrun had never ridden on Dawn on the Amazon III and she was going to a friends wedding in Iquitos so we gave her a ride. One more thing we learned on the way is she is quitting her job as an English and German teacher at the university to devote full time to her unique creation of the Butterfly Farm. It is sure to say with her full time attention the quality of the experience will go up even more.

A feast for our guests

Back at the boat, our Peruvian grandmother had cooked up a feast for our guests. We cruised slowly up the Momon River watching the rainforest glide by as we devoured the tender chicken from the oven, complimented by mashed yellow potatoes from the Andes, some of the best brown rice I have ever eaten, cooked with toasted slivers of Brazil nuts, a fresh heart of palm salad with ripe avacodo, and fresh squeezed camu-camu juice. Did you know camu-camu has the highest vitamine C content of any substance on earth? That was the best meal I had eaten since the last one our Peruvian grandmother cooked.

We took target practice with a real blow gun at the Yagua village

At the Yagua village I was so full I barely managed to get off the boat. Our guests were happy to dance with the Yaguas to work off the big meal. Everyone that wanted took target practice with a real blow gun. Bill Blaesing showed us he could survive in the jungle by hitting the target every time. Bill negotiated with our Yagua hosts for a bunch of jungle jewelry, paid too much on purpose, and we were good for the Yagua economy.

We learned the Yagua tribe was living on the Peruvian side of the Putumayo River across from Columbia. They were living a dangerous and difficult life, trapped between the guerilla war activities with cocaine smugglers, gangs of robbers, and the armies from both countries. A non-profit organization helped them escape to their present location on the Momon River. They are nice people, trying to preserve their culture, barely scratching out a living on the fringe of civilization.

We cooled of with a refreshing swim

We chose a good place to tie the boat up and cooled off with a refreshing swim. Dawn III has a metal flap right at the water line where we fasten a ladder to make it easy to climb out of the water. The flap makes a great place to hang out, dangle your feet in the water or dive off. We have two showers to rinse off on the flap after swimming, and fluffy towels to dry with.

Everyone watching pink dolphins

As we cruised back to Iquitos at the end of the day with everyone watching pink dolphins feeding near our boat, one of the boys told me, “This was the best day of my life”

You know what? It was also one of the best days of my life.

Our Amazon Tour to the Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru

Bill Grimes, Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

I hope you will enjoy more photos from our Amazon Tour to the Butterfly Farm at my on-line photo gallery;

An Amazon Tour to the Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru

Another article for you to research is Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru

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Hello my friends, I am back in Iquitos Peru. It has been too long since I posted here. No excuse is adequate, but you should know I do my best work when I can concentrate on one or two projects. There have been too many projects. I have been practicing triage. The Captains Blog and personal correspondence suffered. Now I hope to revive the Captains Blog and communicate with my friends by reporting some of what my crew and I have been working on.

We are creating a better Amazon adventure river boat out of Dawn on the Amazon I. Now it is longer and wider and will sleep 6 comfortably and eight if everyone is friendly. Before it slept 4 guests comfortably, 6 if everyone was friendly. When Dawn I was outfitted for an overnight Amazon expedition there was too much weight in the stern causing a drag at the back of the boat and thus a loss of efficiency. We have rebuilt it with a one hundred gallon aluminum fuel tank built into the bow, under the observation/sun deck at the front of the boat. This improvement will distribute the weight much more efficiently, and is a better use of space. The extra width at the stern not only increases stability, but means those of us that are getting larger will have easier access to the private bath room at the back. This new version of Dawn on the Amazon I will be the best, most attractive, and safest Amazon adventure river boat operating out of Iquitos Peru.

I am working on another writing project which I will tell you more about when I have more to show for it, hopefully soon. Combined with the writing will be a new web site about a new subject. You will be the first to know if you subscribe to the Dawn on the Amazon Captains Blog RSS feed by clicking the orange rectangle (like this, ), near the top of the column to the right of this article. It is free. When you click the orange RSS FEED another page will open. At the top of that page you will have choices of which reader to use. I use Google Reader. Click Google, they will prompt you to open an account to use the free reader. It will take 5-10 minutes, and it will be time well spent.

Have you clicked on the About Dawn on the Amazon link right below the orange rectangles in the column to the right? There you will see new information about Dawn on the Amazon, and Bill Grimes. Below the About Dawn on the Amazon, is a link to Contact Bill. Send me an email. Tell me about yourself and what subjects you would like to see more of on the Captains Blog. It won’t cost a penny and you never know what good might come from that simple communication. If you need help setting up an RSS FEED account just ask and I will talk you through it by email.

My son Mateo has been visiting me for the last 6 weeks. This is his second visit to Iquitos Peru. He likes it. We are just getting caught up from back to back cruises to Tamshiyacu Tahuayo Reserve and Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. I am already working on posts about those successful Amazon cruises for the very near future, so please check back here in a day or two. (Or, the RSS FEED will alert you.)

My friends Dave and Wilma Volkmann have been visiting Iquitos Peru for a couple of weeks and it has been a pleasure spending time getting caught up on their lives. Dave is one of the original investors in the Amazon Golf Club. Dave went to the golf course and says it looks much better than when he was here a year ago.

Marmelita and I have been working too much. Yesterday we took the afternoon off and went to La Casa Fitzcarraldo to swim and relax. We are feeling rejuvenated. If you live in, or are visiting Iquitos Peru, La Casa Fitzcarraldo, makes a lovely place to spend a quiet afternoon in a jungle garden setting, swinging in a hammock, reading a book, swimming in the pool, drinking a cold beer, or enjoying interesting conversation with the owner Walter Saxer. Walter was the Executive Producer of the most important movie made in and around Iquitos Peru, Warner Herzog’s Fitzcarraldo. Marmelita and I lived at La Casa Fitzcarraldo for several months so I know that story well and will tell it here on the Captains Blog in the near future.

That is just a little of what I have been doing, besides running a business full time. It feels good to be back in Iquitos Peru. Thanks for dropping by.

Bill Grimes, You Could Love Iquitos Peru,  Welcome to Iquitos Peru,  www.dawnontheamazon.com

Technorati Tags: Iquitos Peru

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Today Iquiteños celebrate the 144th anniversary of the arrival of two steam ships that sailed from Lima. The navy ships made the treacherous voyage around the tip of South America, through the Straits of Magellan, up the east coast of South America to the entrance of the Amazon, and then up the 2,300 miles of the Amazon River to Iquitos, and begin construction of what would become the farthest international port from an ocean.

Iquitos already existed but January 5, 1864, is considered the beginning of its modern era. It has been an adventure destination ever since, with the rubber boom following the steam ships a few years later.

Ships could arrive from Europe and the United States in much less time, and more frequently than from Lima, creating an international culture, architecture, and population. When rubber became one of the most valuable commodities in the world the money steamed up the Amazon with the ships.

White Gold is an excellent non-fiction book written by a rubber tapper, who became indentured to a rubber baron to the point of near enslavement. The rubber tappers lived and died in extreme hardship for little or no money.

Fitzcarraldo is the movie made by Warner Hertzog and Walter Saxer based on the true life story of a rubber baron. Fitzcarraldo was produced in and around Iquitos. It is considered by many to be the most difficult movie ever made. Walter Saxer still lives in Iquitos in the Casa Fitzcarraldo.

If you are interested in the history of Iquitos the buildings owned and used by Fitzcarraldo, another 75 buildings that are historical landmarks from the Rubber boom era, three historically significant churches, and the museums are part of The Dawn on the Amazon Iquitos City Tour.

Today, Mayor Salomón Diaz urged everyone to “reevaluate our origins, and think about what we, as human beings, contribute to the development of Iquitos.” I am taking that urging seriously. I have been working on a plan for months that will “contribute to the development of Iquitos”. I will unveil my plan here in the Captains Blog over the next couple of weeks.

Please subscribe to my RSS feed and check back with me regularly to help me develop my ideas for making Iquitos a more attractive destination, as well as a better place to live. Thank you.

Bill Grimes,  Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruise,  You Could Love Iquitos Peru

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Is Richard Auckoo Fowler the Scoundrel of Iquitos Peru?

Richard Fowler, one of the controversial “characters” of Iquitos, is under attack again. I have been following along on several forums and blogs, such as this entry, Two Gringos Swindled by Another Gringo in Iquitos, in the Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum.

By far the most literate and entertaining blog with references to Richard Fowler is Going Feral in South America. The post, titled The Sloe Tide, has this exerpt:

“You frighten me Richard Fowler,” hissed a weary and cross-legged Frederick Noble. Peppery perspiration was stained and seeping through his Amazon shirt made only from the most gore-texy of gore-tex items. Richard Fowler grinned as his sinewy bulbs of knuckle searched over to Noble and fished into the blimp owner’s breast pocket for a cherry cheroot. He struck the waterproof-ed match and lit his tube of fire. Noble watched the gaunt and possibly drunk man inhale. The smoke lingered beneath the foliage and banana leaves before being expounded by beams of dusty sunlight cutting into their cavity of canopy.”

There are very few Gringos working in tourism in Iquitos, so I know Richard Fowler. We are neither partners nor competitors. I am not writing this to attack or defend Richard Auckoo Fowler. I am writing this to tell it like it like I see it. That is what I do.

Many of the accusations are probably true. Fowler is an alcoholic, and possibly a drug user. His documents may not be in order. He can wear a person out just by talking, and most of the stories are about his exploits and Auckooisms.

Richard’s niche is mostly hard core, adventurous, soldier of fortune, survivalist types. His tours are rough, with few comforts.

He can identify nearly everything in the rainforest by its common English, Spanish, and scientific name and knows their ethno-botanical use. He can enter the deepest, densest remote area and, most importantly, get back out again. He can call in jungle cats. He has stalked and captured one of the rarest mammals on earth, an Amazon Wild Dog. These qualities place him among the elite guides.

I know two older gentlemen who will not go to the jungle with anyone else. He is strong; they use him for a walking stick.

Richard charges $50 per day or $100 if it is one person. One of the complaints is he was getting rich while not paying the natives enough. That complaint is crazy. He is not getting rich. He can’t pay the rent. I wouldn’t take you across the river within sight of Iquitos for $50.

Do not pack your preconceptions into the Amazon Rainforest. Unskilled hard labor right here in Iquitos is $3 per day. For a Matses indigenous a hundred miles up the Rio Yavari, $3 per day is a windfall. It is $3 more than they would have if Richard Auckoo Fowler did not take a few adventurers to them.

A person whose internet name is J Hampshire has pursued the vendetta against Richard Auckoo Fowler. Apparently J Hampshire had a bad experience with Fowler. Auckoo claims he has no idea who J Hampshire is.

I admire the effort that J Hampshire has put into this cause. He has contacted every paper in Iquitos, posted on lots of blogs and forums, and tried many other methods to ruin Richard. Fowler’s rap sheet is all over Iquitos, Florida, the internet, and thus the world. I have examined it carefully.

It is interesting how small events change the course of a person’s life. Auckoo’s problems with the law started out with an assault and battery, then a disorderly conduct, then an assault and battery, and then there are several years with no infractions. I bet the judge said, “Son, you like to fight and cause trouble. Either join the armed forces and go to Viet Nam or go to jail. Which will it be?”

“Viet Nam, your honor.” In Viet Nam, Fowler learned to be really dangerous.

In 1975 he was charged with transporting explosives with intent to do harm to life and limb. It is important to note that all charges were dismissed.

In fact all charges were dismissed until 1996 when he paid a $253 fine and spent some time in jail. When you look closely at Fowler’s rap sheet, all but one of the charges were dismissed. He paid his fine, served his time, and made a new life. Let it go.

Fowler may be a seriously flawed human being. J Hampshire may be a good person with every reason to be angry. However, in my opinion, J Hampshire crossed the line when he swift-boated Richard Fowler’s military service.

Richard Fowler, while serving in the 101st Airborne at the age of 19, fought to recapture the city of Hue during the Tet offensive in late January and early February of 1968. I am asking you, as a point of honor, do not swift-boat Richard Fowler’s military service. No matter what Richard Fowler’s other faults may be he is an American hero.

I am sure this post will be controversial and I look forward to reading the comments from anyone that has been on an expedition with Richard Auckoo Fowler, both pro and con.

Is Richard Auckoo Fowler the Scoundrel of Iquitos Peru?

Please subscribe to my new RSS feed to be alerted about new posts or comments. Thank you.

Bill Grimes

Welcome to Iquitos Peru

Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

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You Could Love Iquitos Peru

Iquitos, Peru, is surrounded by grand rivers and lush rainforest. This charming city has been my home port for adventure cruises on the magnificent Amazon River for three years. Please allow me to share my love for this frontier town with you.

Your first impression is the warm, oxygen rich, moist air. It feels good and is easy to breathe. Your second impression is there are thousands of motorcycles and three wheel rickshaws called moto-kars whizzing around. Be careful. The biggest adventure most travelers experience in Iquitos is racing through the streets perched on the edge of their seat in a moto-kar weaving in and out of traffic.

The rules of the road are different from what you are used to, so a bad wreck seems inevitable. Be sure to keep your arms, legs, and baggage inside the steel frame. When the Moto-kar arrives, make sure you get out on the sidewalk side, never the street side. Pedestrians have no right of way in Iquitos, Peru.

Iquitos has no roads connecting to other cities making it the largest, most isolated city on any continent. Cars are status symbols. I do not have one. Boats are important. I have four river boats. I walk or take a moto-kar, and I spend a lot of time in my boats.

I want to attempt to correct a mistake perpetuated by the travel industry, and the guide books, and found on the internet. Their combined wisdom is that the best time for the traveler to come to Iquitos, Peru, is during the “dry season” from June through November.

There are two seasons, but they are not dry and wet. What is called the “dry season” should actually be called the low water season when the water level can be 40 feet lower than the high water season. High water levels are from December through May.

The rise and fall of the water has little or nothing to do with rainfall on Iquitos. It is the snow melt and rainfall on the east slope of the Andes that causes our rivers to rise. In my opinion the only activities that are better in the low water season are fishing, collecting ornamental fish, and walking on the beach. Everything else is better in the high water season.

The most important historical event in Iquitos, Peru, was the rubber boom, which caused an explosion in population and prosperity from 1880 through 1912. The legacy from the rubber era can still be seen in the architecture of the city and the elegant mansions, as well as the Iron House and bandstand designed by Eiffel.

Most of the mansions are decorated with exquisitely painted ceramic tiles imported from Portugal, and with mahogany elaborately carved by the most skilled Italian artists. You could love a tour of the historical buildings of Iquitos. Be sure to visit the Museo Amazonico, constructed in 1863 to admire the many sculptures by Felipe Lettersten, as well as the old photographs from the turn of the 19th century.

Shopping is not good in Iquitos unless you want to buy tropical fruits, natural medicines, or other jungle extracts, in which case it is great. I wish every traveler would take a special tour with a knowledgeable guide to the Belen market in the morning for an unusual shopping experience. In the alleyway known as Pasaje Paquito there is a natural medicine to cure every imaginable illness, and in the lower Belen Market you can buy anything that can be sold.

The Plaza de Armas has a wonderful fountain. We like to buy ice cream cones from across the street and eat them in the cool mist from the fountain. It can be very romantic.

Another good place to hang out is the Malecon, also called the boulevard, or river walk, with the best view of the sunrise over the Itaya River. Perhaps we will meet. I live on the third floor of the corner building across the street from the historic chapel and seminary. My office is on the ground floor. Look for the sign that says Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises. Stop in and say hi.

On Saturday and Sunday night the boulevard is the place to be, where people gather to see and be seen. You would love to visit with some of the “characters” from the ex-pat community, drink a cold Iquiteña Extra beer (locally brewed), and watch the action. Clowns on stilts, mimes, slapstick comedians, capoeira, a brass band, street musicians, a dog and monkey show, and beautiful women all compete for your attention. My favorite is the group of capoeiristas that performs the capoeira, an acrobatic martial arts dance, every Saturday at 8 p.m. I have the best seat in the house from my balcony.

You would love going with me in one of the boats for a few hours. The port area is one of the most interesting parts of the city and most travelers never see it. I like to cruise slowly close to shore and watch the tugs and barges, the colectivos, llevo-llevos, lanchas, lanchitas, canoes, and rafts, all so full of people, livestock, fruit, charcoal, and other jungle products they look like they would surely sink. Coming and going, loading and unloading…not many places in the world have more interesting maritime traffic than the Iquitos ports.

The best way to experience the most picturesque area in Iquitos, the Barrio de Belen, is from a boat during the high water season. The houses are built on balsa rafts and float up and down as the water level changes. The floating houses are laid out in streets of water.

This area is known as the Venice of Peru. Everyone has a canoe or llevo-llevo with a peque-peque motor. We like to cruise through slow and easy watching life being lived in a different way. One of my boats was built here so I know the neighborhood very well. This is one of the most interesting places I have ever been and I think you would love it to.

A short boat ride away from Iquitos are some of my favorite places, the Amazon Animal Orphanage and Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm, the Momon River, a small winding stream with the jungle close on both sides, a petting zoo where you can wrestle a giant anaconda, the Bora and Yagua indigenous villages, and a good place to watch the pink river dolphins. I think you would love to spend part of a day cruising around the rivers of Iquitos with me.

The best of Iquitos Peru are the people
The most important components of Iquitos, Peru, are the friendly non-violent people. The streets are the safest of any city I have known, and are swept by hand every night so they are usually clean. Violent crime is nearly unheard of, but of course there are plenty of hustlers so please use common sense like always.

The population census shows far more women than men. You have probably never see so many people smiling and laughing, ready to dance, drink, play, and flirt for fun. Every holiday is thoroughly celebrated and there are a lot of parades and parties. Plus we are blessed with eternal summer.

Iquitos, Peru, is known as The City of Love. If you are not in love when you arrive, there is a good chance you will be when you leave…

You Could Love Iquitos Peru

Follow this link to see pictures from the Belen Market and Iquitos set of our photo album.

Bill Grimes, www.dawnontheamazon.com

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Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru

I am going to take you behind the scenes of the Amazon Animal Orphanage and Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm in Iquitos Peru. Most people know a little bit about the Butterfly Farm. I have earned my insights studying and photographing at the Butterfly Farm.

First, let me introduce you to the cast of characters:

Tony Piraña thinks she is the star of the show at the Butterfly Farm. Tony is a White-fronted Capuchin Monkey, raised by street children in Iquitos Peru. Capuchins are considered to be the smartest monkeys in Central and South America, with many documented cases of habitual tool use. Tony uses tools. She uses sweaty gringos for salt licks, supplementing her diet with daily mineral licks. She is a talented pick pocket and a good photographer. Keep one hand on your camera and the other on your sun glasses.

Chavo is the boss. Everyone does what he says. How an endangered Red Uakari Monkey took over the Butterfly Farm is another story. Chavo nurtures and grooms the young monkeys, and carries them around on his back. He does not seem to care what species they are. He protects them all, so don’t attack any little monkeys, otherwise he will do the same to you. Something that he likes is to groom the guests, and then he wants you to return the favor.

Zeke and Florian are Saki Monkeys. If you are lucky they might let you touch their luxurious tails.

Junior is a Black Capuchin and is Tony’s pick pocket protégé. No offence to Tony but Junior is cuter, nicer and has much better manners. He likes to come and play with you and be coquettish, wiggling his eyebrows up and down, as he crawls under your shirt or blouse, ha, ji. Here the people joke that the man would like to be the monkey…

Rosa the Giant Anteater, is also orphaned and an endangered species. To me it is a great treat to see this animal up close. Until you have seen how long her tongue is, you will not believe me.

Gudrun is a human. Her job is just to work hard and make enough money to feed the animals.

Igor and young Argus are Red Howler Monkeys and are among the most polite characters at the Butterfly Farm.

Two new members of the Butterfly Farm family are Pauly and Wicky. Pauly is an immature Red Uakari. Wicky is a young Saddleback Tamarind.

All of the characters listed above are free to roam at will around the Butterfly Farm

Lucas is a tapir that lives in a large fenced in jungle pasture. He eats $1,000 worth of fruit and vegetables per year.

Pedro Bello, the magnificent Jaguar, lives in a huge cage that cost $10,000 to build, with a big pool of water, plus he eats $3,600 worth of red meat, chicken and fish, per year. I did not realize how large Jaguars get until I stood close to Pedro. His paws and head are huge.

Roblar is another human. Like Lucas, he rarely leaves his fenced in area. He works hard every day, leading tours and preventing the monkeys from eating the caterpillars and butterflies.

The monkeys forage for most of their food except for peanuts which they seem to love. The monkeys cost around $250 per year to feed.

Four macaws and nine parrots eat around $600 per year of fruit and nuts.

The manatee eats 22 pounds of lettuce per day for a cost of over $1,000 per year for a sea cow that only shows you its nostrils.

Add a few hundred dollars to feed the agouti, turtles, and caiman.

Had it not been for Gudrun’s and Roblar’s intervention, all of these other “characters” would most certainly have died long ago.

These two humans need help. I do not know how much the veterinarians charge them, or how much is spent on labor and maintenance, INRENA fees, taxes, and miscellaneous expenses, but I think it is a lot.

Don’t expect me to be unbiased about the Amazon Animal Orphanage and Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm in Iquitos Peru. Gudrun is one of my best friends in Iquitos. I know how hard she works. In addition to the Butterfly Farm she works at the University teaching German and English so she can afford to buy enough food for Pedro Bello.

I am going to reveal another behind the scenes secret. There is a new character in the plot. Gudrun and Roblar have saved an Ocelot. The Ocelot must have a larger cage to be happy, and to make Gudrun, Roblar, all the rest of us, and you happy.

I am not authorized to speak for the Butterfly Farm, but please, donate money toward a larger cage for the Ocelot, and to help with food costs. Do not ask to see the ocelot without making a donation.

In case you think a Butterfly Farm sounds boring, lots of exciting natural events happen here. Boa Constrictors slip into the Agouti cage for a meal, and then can not get back out. Giant larva, big around as a sausage, hatch into huge beetles with samari swords for pinchers. Pedro Bello hurtles after a monkey silly enough to get on top of his cage. When Pedro is very lucky he gets a live agouti turned into his lair, or a live fish released into his pond.

The Butterfly Farm is located in the jungle near the village of Padre Cocha, and the life and death drama of the food chain plays out here every day. I observe and photograph something new and unexpected every time I go to the Butterfly Farm.

Join me the next time Dawn on the Amazon visits the Butterfly Farm. There you will find a lot of what you came to Iquitos Peru to see in the first place. I didn’t even mention the 40 species of tropical butterflies and their host plants in the botanical garden.

Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru

Amazon Animal Orphanage and Pilpintuwasi Butterfly Farm, Iquitos Peru,

Bill Grimes, Welcome to Iquitos Peru , Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

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