Dawn on the Amazon

Dawn
on the Amazon
Captains Blog

About the upper Amazon River, the Amazon rainforest, Iquitos Peru, and Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises.

February 12, 2010

Top Ten Tips To Explore The Belen Market

Filed under: Iquitos Peru Stories — Captain Bill @ 4:25 pm

Our top ten tips to explore the Belen market.

Iquitos is famous for the numbers and quality of the shamans that practice in and near the city. Most shamans use the mapacho tobacco as part of their ceremony, and you can buy it at the Belen Market

Iquitos is famous for the numbers and quality of the shamans that practice in and near the city. Most shamans use mapacho tobacco as part of their ceremony. You can buy it at the Belen Market

The Belen Market has a reputation that I hope to repair with this article. If you follow along with Marmelita and I, we will show you our top ten tips to be safe, while finding the freshest produce, and learning the most about the new products you’ll discover. Some tourists only see the two day old chicken in the sun, the salted dried fish, the lower market with drunks passed out in the mud, the afternoon garbage, and buzzards. All of that can be interesting and is part of the story, but right now I want you to know about the fresh, safe, upper Belen Market.

The Belen Market is a great, huge, third world outdoor “super” market that covers 20 blocks or more. Everything that can be bought or sold, is bought and sold there. In this article Marmelita and I are focused on purchasing supplies to outfit an expedition with Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises. Follow along with us as we purchase only the best and freshest fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, herbs, and spices.

  1. It is best to go to the Belen Market in the morning. Relax, after breakfast, around 8:30 or 9:00 is early enough for you. Use the toilet before you go.
  2. We buy all of our Dorado fish from Mariela Macedo. She is located in the large blue building in the first stall of the fish section at the top of the stairs. We trust her to make sure our fish is the freshest. We trust, but we verify. The gills were still moving this mornhing. The price per kilo is S/ 18 to S/24 soles depending on supply and demand. If Mariela is not working her fish stall, her daughter Katarina will take good care of you.
  3. Shopping at the Belen Market is a microcosm of life. Building good relationships of trust and respect is important. Dawn on the Amazon is a good customer. We pay when we buy, and we only want the freshest and best. Marmelita is a charming woman. She jokes a lot, they laugh, and business is built around the relationship.
  4. Don’t buy your basil or other herbs in the stores because they are brought from Lima. The basil we use is harvested that morning and the dried herbs are fresh ground.
  5. For long expeditions we buy some fruits and vegetables completely ripe to start, and some to ripen (and not spoil) along the way. For the Dawn on the Amazon Cafe we only purchase the ripest fruits and vegetables because we buy them fresh every morning between 6:00 and 7:00am.
  6. One of the stores we like at the Belen Market is called El Cruz del Chalpon, and we think it’s the best place to buy many fruits and vegetables, but we always check around to make sure theirs are the freshest.
  7. The Belen Market is safe, but you should use the normal precautions as in any crowded area in the world. In hundreds of trips to the Belen Market to purchase supplies we have never been robbed or threatened. Use common sense. Don’t look or be vulnerable. Be alert to pickpockets. Don’t carry unnecessary valuables with you. Carry everything in front of you, backpacks, fanny packs, purses, camera bags, etc. I keep my camera out, strap around my neck, but I also keep one hand on it at all times.
  8. Keep your wallet and change purse in your front pockets, preferably zipped up. Keep some small sole bills and change in a separate pocket, so you never have to get your large sole bills out to show anyone you have them. No vendor will want to make change for a S/ 100 sole bill so you can buy a S/ 2 sole mango anyway. US currency is nearly worthless here. Plan ahead, change to small bill soles before coming to the Belen Market.
  9. Dawn on the Amazon is the only tour company, restaurant, or store that rinses all of our fruits, vegetables, and herbs in pure water, then we soak them in pure water and then we rinse them again in pure water, so you can be safe and sure…and so I don’t have to worry about you.
  10. The Belen Market is not a tourist trap, it is real life, with much of real life’s beauty and ugliness, aromas and odors, laughter and anger, honorable vendors next to petty thieves with rigged scales, barkers shouting out their wares, musicians playing, cooks cooking, blenders blending, babies nursing, dogs doing what dogs do, parrots squawking, and all combined, create an excellent reason for some tourists that are interested to learn about real life in Iquitos to spend several hours here.
  11. Bonus Tip. To make sure you learn the most about the exotic rainforest natural medicines and other products, many of which might be new for you, and to make sure you don’t get lost in the labyrinth of alleyways, you will enjoy your time much more with a nice, knowledgeable, English speaking guide. I know where there are three of them I can recommend. Check in at my Dawn on the Amazon office on the boulevard, over looking the river, less than two blocks from the Plaza de Armas.

Nearly all of the food served in the restaurants, lodges, and cruise ships operating in Iquitos Peru comes from the Belen Market. The difference is in how fresh that food is when it’s purchased, how it’s cleaned and rinsed, how soon it’s refrigerated, and the hygiene of the cooks that handle it.

I hope this article will bring a better appreciation and awareness of how the food chain is fresh and safe at the Belen Market, in Iquitos Peru. Maybe you will be relieved to know.

Marmelita, choosing only the perfect vegetables and fruit

Marmelita, choosing only the perfect vegetables and fruit

Our top ten tips to explore the Belen Market.

Bill Grimes is the President of Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises, and the owner of the Dawn on the Amazon Cafe. He blogs about Iquitos regularly on the Captain’s Blog at www.dawnontheamazon.com/blog.

February 3, 2010

An Interesting Email About Missionary Work In Iquitos Peru

Filed under: Dawn on the Amazon, Iquitos Peru Stories — Captain Bill @ 7:17 pm

I receive hundreds of emails. I still try to answer them all personally. Sunday I tried to get caught up. It takes a lot of my time. Last Sunday around midnight I was exhausted from working all day, but decided to check one more email. I’m glad I did. Sometimes the email exchange becomes the foundation of a good friendship. I wonder if this is one of those. I’m blogging them here but without the names, or hotel, (to protect the innocent, if there are any :-) ). I am going to publish one of their web site URL’s to help bring some awareness to their cause.

Here is part of our exchange;

I am a police chief in a small town in the Southern part of the  United States.
I have two friends whom are starting a mission to house some the women and children of iquitos. They have been doing this for several years and I am new to actually having a missionary friend. I have a simple request, but I don’t know how to accomplish it, I would like to send them fresh flowers to their room. I don’t know if it is possible. I would gladly pay, just don’t know how to go about it. If you have any suggestions or would be willing to help I would gladly look you up when I come later this year and buy your supper. If you can help they are at the ****Hotel, Iquitos room ***.

Thank you
****

I replied;

Hi Chief,
Nice to hear from you about a good cause. I’m possibly the busiest guy in Iquitos but I want to help you. Here is the deal; Have you discovered my Captain’s Blog yet? I have published over 250 articles about Iquitos, the great reserves, rivers and rainforest. There are articles about my favorite places and what we see and do in this charming port city surrounded by rivers and jungle. There are hotel and restaurant reviews, packing lists, advice about handling and changing money and lots more. I’m sure there is a lot of information you and your friends would find to be valuable.
I want you to read one of those articles right now;
What I Am Doing For You And What You Can Do For Me;
Please pay particular attention to the last few paragraphs under the subtitle; How You Can Help Me Help You. If you agree to those terms, and maybe if you eat one meal at my restaurant, The Dawn on the Amazon Café, I will get your friends a bouquet of fresh flowers. If you agree, I trust you to look me up when you get here and honor your terms of agreement. Let me know as soon as possible.
Best,
Bill
Then;
Bill I will gladly join, and treat you at your own restaurant. I am on my blackberry but I will join asap. Also sounds like your the man to know in Iquitos.

Flowers to **** ,and ****
I am a pretty good photographer also.

Thanks Bill, Semper Phi

I replied,

Good Morning,

We will order the bouquet later today. Don’t worry about joining the Amazon Explorers Club now, or paying for the flowers. I will let you know the cost of flowers. It won’t be much. Wait till you arrive in Iquitos and we can settle up then.

I answered probably 25 or 30 emails Sunday, a dozen asking about my tours and cruises but your email was by far the one that interested me the most. With your permission I think it would make an interesting short blog article. I won’t mention any of your names, just the story. OK?

Semper Phi
Bill

His reply;

Roger that Bill, be glad for you to put it up, you are doing a service for two women trying to make difference, thanks! There mission info can be found at lindapatterson.org I plan to come and help build soon, and may retire there.

Hi ****,

I bought a bouquet of ginger, and heliconias. The price was S/ 35, or $12.50. I will have the receipt when you get here. One of my best guides, Richard, picked it up and delivered it to the **** Hotel, along with a note that I wrote explaining the flowers were from you, and that Bill and Richard delivered them through the Amazon Explorers Club. Your friends were not at the hotel when he delivered them. I didn’t see them but Richard told me the flowers were beautiful. We can only hope when your friends return to the hotel they will receive your bouquet. Let me know if we succeeded.

Best,
Bill

Then,

Thank you Bill, I have a friend here that is a travel agent, I will be having lunch with her next week and I will be discussing the area. For the great effort you have went to which is extremely kind, I plan to explain how we need to start planning trips from here. I hope that I can make this gesture profitable for you. Thanks again and I will be in contact shortly.

Hi ****,

Ohhh, it wasn’t such a great effort. I was happy to help, and if I have a new Amazon Explorers Club member, and we share a meal together, it sounds like the beginning of a new friendship. I couldn’t ask for more.

Semper Phi
Bill

The ladies got the flowers and really made there day! Thanks they may see you for supper one night. Thanks again!

So that is my good deed for the day. I feel fine.

This is an interesting email exchange about missionary work in Iquitos Peru.

Bill Grimes is president of Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises, The Dawn on the Amazon Explorers Club, The Peacock Bass Club, The Amazon Birders Club, manager of the Amazon Golf Course, and just opened the new Dawn on the Amazon Café. When he has time, ha, ha, he blogs.

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