Dawn on the Amazon Captain’s Blog

About the upper Amazon River, the Amazon rainforest, Iquitos Peru, and Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises.

February 8, 2008

An Amazon Cruise to Determine the Longest River in the World

Filed under: Amazon River Stories — Bill @ 7:14 pm

The-Amazon-River-Largest-in-the-World

Which is the longest river in the world, the Nile or the Amazon? This is an earth shaking question for geologists, geographers, and hydrologists. The exploration of these two rivers is full of history, mystery, and legend. “Dr. Livingstone I presume.” I have a small connection to the Nile, and a large connection to the exploration of the Amazon River, so I have taken an interest in this question.

Some of my best adventure memories are the two times I white-water rafted what had been considered the source of the Nile in Uganda. We portaged around category 8 rapids but shot the rest. Two in our group attempted to kayak the category 8s, but capsized each time. In the United States it is prohibited to raft any rapids above category 5. I felt the fear. I would never attempt a category 8.

Recently my boat, Dawn on the Amazon III, was chartered for an Amazon cruise from Iquitos to the Triple Frontier of Brazil, Columbia and Peru, by a family of Polish adventurers on an Amazon Challenge.

Their Amazon Challenge was to trace the path established in 1996, by the famous Polish geographer, explorer, and great self promoter, Jacek Palkiewicz. Using high resolution satellite photos to begin with, Jacek teamed with the Lima Geographic Society to establish a new source for the “mother of all rivers” that temporarily made the Amazon River the longest.

His source and his calculations were later discredited by over 160 miles and the Nile regained the official designation of longest river.

From what I have read about Jacek he would never have chosen a source that would have been the second longest river. He is a longest river type of explorer.

Because of national pride and Jacek’s knack for promotion our Polish adventurers obtained maps and books and set off on their Amazon Challenge high into the frozen Andes, and then down into the tropical rainforest to Iquitos Peru for an Amazon cruise on to the next leg of the journey.

I studied the maps and photos while we were on our Amazon cruise and started taking more of an interest in the problem. It is difficult to determine river length. Not only is it difficult to pin-point the source and the point of actual discharge but big rivers constantly change their course.

There is no doubt that the Amazon River is the largest. It’s volume is greater than the next 8 largest rivers combined according to mongabay.com. Because the Amazon River carries so much more water, the action of erosion is greater and the course of the river changes more.

A long horseshoe bend in the river can be cut off, become a lake, and the river can lose miles of length in one hour. During the flood season the channel can change and pick up miles of length.

The outside bend of a river where the current is strongest is called the cut bank. The inside bend is the slip-off slope. Those names describe the near constant action of erosion that eventually causes the course of the river to change.

In the year 2000 National Geographic put out an expedition led ironically by a Polish-American math teacher, Andrew Pietowski. Using GPS they established a new source, confirming the Nile to be the longest river.

In 2006 the “true source” of the Nile was pushed upstream into the swamps of Rwanda. I have doubts about that story. I wonder if they had a hydrologist on board to measure stream flow. Part of determining the source is measuring the volume of water that flows in a given time period. That swamp has very little stream flow.

In 2007 a Brazilian expedition claims to have established a new source proving the Amazon River to be the longest by 65 miles.

An Amazon cruise to determine which is longer, the Amazon River or the Nile River

I think it is safe to say this controversy is not over. For now I am happy to think of the Nile as the longest and the Amazon as the largest. If a team of cartographers want to float and measure in comfort from the upper Ucayali or the upper Marañon to the triple frontier on an Amazon cruise, please remember that I am interested. Keep Dawn on the Amazon in mind.

To read another article on this subject please click An Amazon Cruise from Iquitos Peru to a Festival at the Frontier.

February 2, 2008

An Amazon Cruise from Iquitos Peru to a Festival at the Frontier

Filed under: Amazon River Stories — Bill @ 6:32 pm

Sunset on the Amazon RiverThis story is for anyone interested in learning more about an Amazon Cruise from Iquitos Peru to the Triple Frontier. There is no such thing as a typical Amazon Cruise with Dawn on the Amazon. This one certainly isn’t, but you might get an idea of what it could be like to join us on your own Amazon Cruise.

A family of eight Polish adventurers chartered Dawn on the Amazon III on a mission they called the Amazon Challenge. Their “challenge” was inspired by national pride and by thePolish adventurers persuing the Amazon Challenge Polish adventurer, explorer, and great self-promoter, Jacek Palkiewicz, who led an expedition to discover the source of the Amazon. In 1996 he followed that trickle of water high in the Andes to the Atlantic Ocean. Our Polish adventurers climbed to the barren, rocky, frozen, high glacial Andean region that Jacek claimed to be where the “mother of all rivers is born”.

They arrived in Iquitos Peru exhausted from their strenuous experience in the Andes and after descending into the high jungle. There was no rule that made being miserable mandatory on their self imposed Amazon Challenge. They wanted only to relax in comfort on an Amazon Cruise that followed Jacek’s route. They knew there were many bad boats on the upper Amazon. To complete one of the great river journeys, they were sure they would be better off in a safe, quite, comfortable boat.

Part of the Amazon Challenge was documenting their adventure with professional photography and semi professional video equipment. Dawn on the Amazon III is probably the most photogenic boat on the upper Amazon River. As soon as our adventurers saw Dawn on the Amazon III, with her beautiful tropical hardwoods polished and gleaming, they knew that was the Amazon River boat to carry them in comfort on an Amazon Cruise from Iquitos down the Amazon River to a party at the Triple Frontier.

Before we could start our Amazon cruise we had to take on supplies. Our guests had only one special request. Make sure there is one bottle of good whiskey on board…per day. For a seven day Amazon cruise, I bought a case of Jack Daniel’s Black Label. Cast off, Bon Voyage!

As we watched the ports and buildings of Iquitos recede, they showed me maps and a copy of Jacek’s book they were using as a reference. Although it was in Polish, there were many maps, illustrations, and photos. One of the photos was of Jacek and his crew holding a 30 foot anaconda. I asked if they would like a photo of that for their documentary of their journey? Of course! First stop Los Boas.

Part of the Amazon ChallengeLos Boas is a private serpentarium run by the Steve Irwin of the Amazon, a character named Mesia. It was a great place to take the adventurers to film and video them all struggling to hold a 20 foot anaconda, making faces with red tailed boas wrapped around their arms and macaws on their shoulders making them like pirates, or at least like the photos of Jacek. It was a great photo op and I am sure the Anaconda photo will be in their book, The Amazon Challenge.

The next stop was another hour and a half downstream, across the Amazon River from the village of Indiana. Monkey Island is what it says. Several individuals of eight species of monkeys live on the island. As the monkeys become used to the island and the people visiting them, and because they are fed at a central location, they become tame and come right up and sit on our shoulders, put their dirty fingerprints on the camera lenses, and are generally very cute and adorable. More good video and photo opportunities for the adventurers.

Across from the island, on the opposite side from the Amazon is a black water river called the Yana Yacu. It is a beautiful, small river with the bank close on both sides. Pink dolphins fed right beside our boat at the confluence. We cruised up the river enjoying close contact with the birds, wild life, and the rainforest, seeing the bromeliads and orchids up close. We saw an Iguana, a group of Pygmy Marmosets, smallest monkey in the world, and I would guess a hundred species of birds, and we had just left Iquitos that day. We tied up and spent the night lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the boat and a thousand frogs serenading us. Good start.One of the paintings purchased from Grippa

Early next morning we continued down the biggest river. The next stop is Pevas to visit our friend Francisco Grippa, the famous artist of the Amazon. We were in luck. Francisco was home and glad to see us and meet our Polish friends. Francisco is a charming host and great conversationalist. Our friends became most interested when they learned that one of Francisco’s parents was born in Poland. When our guests found out that connection they made a decision based on national pride, and admiration for Francisco Gippa’s paintings, that still surprises me. First they offered to buy every painting in his studio for half price. Francisco refused that offer, and several other offers, but after much negotiating, they bought 4 of his large paintings, including my favorite of an orchid blossom that Georgia O’Keeffe would have appreciated. That was a rare experience to sit in on. I am sure Francisco and I will never forget those intense hours of art speculation.

Indigenous near PevasAfter that we visited the Ocainas natives near Pevas. They performed their traditional dances in typical dress. We bought a lot of their crafted jewelry, all made from jungle seeds, large fish scales, and bones strung and tied with strips of Chambira Palm tree bark, just like 1,000 years ago.

Next stop, my favorite secret fishing hole. I would like to tell you the location but you know how it is with secret fishing holes. It is another small, black water stream with the jungle close on both sides and lots of birds and wildlife. I think it is one of the best places on earth. We swam and fished and visited a small, isolated, ribereño village. Fishing was slow. We only caught a few little ones, nothing to brag about. We boiled and cleaned the jaws of the piranhas and they made nice toothy souvenirs to go with the Ocaina jewelery.

We cook a lot of great local food on Dawn on the Amazon III. One of our dishes that got the best reception from our guests on this trip was escargot made from giant amazon snails. Their shell is larger than a baseball. The shells were added to the souvenirs, there were no leftovers.Yahooooo

On every Amazon Cruise we offer night excursions. Part of what we do is to use our super bright spot light to shine and get very close to caiman, colorful frogs, night hawks, and Potos. Most people are amazed to be that close to wildlife.

We could have made several more stops along the way, to tour a water buffalo farm and buy water buffalo cheese, to visit a leper colony, to explore another small stream that leads to an interesting native village, to boat around a large lake, to take our small excursion boat to a place where the Victoria Regia, a giant water lily, grows, a place where we know pink dolphin congregate to feed, and more, but our guests decided our best option would be to hurry on to the triple frontier to take part in the Fiesta de la Confraternidad. It is a large festival combining the best of the distinctive cultures of Peru, Columbia, and Brazil in an annual celebration of music, dancing, beauty pageant, athletics, parades, and fireworks. We were all happy with that choice.

We tied Dawn on the Amazon III up at Santa Rosa on the Peru side, took care of customs, and hired a river taxi to take us across the river. That was our first trip to the festival. One of our friends from Iquitos had entered the beauty pageant. Sybila finished second, but we all thought she should have won.

Another successful Amazon Cruise with Dawn on the Amazon, this time to the triple frontier.

Santa Rosa portThe GPS showed we traveled 536.5 kilometers from Iquitos to Santa Rosa, Peru on this Amazon cruise. The time of travel was 31 hours. That does not include the time we tied up at night, or when we stopped to play. We arrived at Santa Rosa around 1:00 PM on the fourth day. We spent three days and two nights there living on the boat and enjoying the festivities. Then we saw our new friends happily off to the next leg of their Amazon Challenge down the largest river on earth to Manaus.

If you have taken an Amazon Cruise down the Amazon River to the triple frontier of Peru at Santa Rosa, Columbia at Leticia, or Brazil at Tabatinga, with some other company or if you are planning an Amazon cruise in the future please check the Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises web site. If you like what you see there send me an email from the contact page and we will help you plan your own Amazon Challenge from Iquitos Peru.

An Amazon Cruise from Iquitos Peru

Bill Grimes, Welcome to Iquitos Peru

Technorati Tags: ,,,

Powered by WordPress