Dawn on the Amazon

Dawn
on the Amazon
Captains Blog

About the upper Amazon River, the Amazon rainforest, Iquitos Peru, and Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises.

January 28, 2007

Yuru, Amazónica Princess, Featuring Dawn on the Amazon III

Filed under: Dawn on the Amazon — Captain Bill @ 6:40 pm

Yuru, Amazónica Princess, Featuring Dawn on the Amazon III

My crew and I are very proud that Dawn on the Amazon III will play a prominent roll in the twenty episode mini series, Yuru, Amazónica Princess. The adventure series is based on illegal international wildlife trafficking from the rainforest. Tunche and Culebra are the villains who steal the lovely Yuru’s pet monkey. The adventure and romance are driven by her struggle to reclaim her pet and to free the other wild life the poachers have caged ready to smuggle out of Peru.

I do not want to ruin the ending for you…but…naw…I will just tell you that by the ending, both of my boats were a muddy mess. The villains thought nothing of flopping down on our hand embroidered sheets with their muddy boots, or scratching our hardwood floors dragging equipment around. My crew sanded and cleaned for days after we finished the shoot. We think the boat gained character from one scene. Tunche was supposed to stab his knife into the rail. The rail is made of Purple Heart, one of the densest, hardest woods in the world. Purple Heart does not stab easily. Sparks flew! That scene was shot over and over and he never really got it right. We left the stab marks for our souvenirs.

We still laugh among ourselves remembering one scene, filmed from the island at the confluence of the Momon and Nanay Rivers. Dawn III comes around the bend and no one is supposed to be visible. Captain Santos, who is comically short anyway, was barely peeking over the pilot house window to steer the ship and the director is screaming into the VHF radio, “I see one head, I see a head. That head had better disappear.” Santos can’t believe it is his head and says, “I have to see to steer, what do they want, a ghost boat.”

Filming a movie is hard and boring. Making movies in the jungle is harder still. My crew was ready to mutiny several times. Oh, you should have heard them complain. During one three-day film session, which was only supposed to last eight hours, most of the crew did not even have a change of clothes. Everyone was mad at me. Now that the promotional clips are on TV every half hour, my crew tell a different story. Dawn on the Amazon III comes around the bend and it looks like a beautiful ghost ship; not one head in sight. They all get to tell their friends and family how it was done. They are celebrities in their own neighborhoods, and I am not such a bad “jefe” after all.

The first installment of Yuru, Amazónica Princess, begins February 5th on Peru national TV, channel 9.

Yuru, Amazónica Princess, Featuring Dawn on the Amazon III

Bill Grimes,  Welcome to IquitosDawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

January 23, 2007

The Characters of Iquitos, Peru

Filed under: Iquitos Peru Stories — Captain Bill @ 9:20 pm

The Characters of Iquitos Peru

Characters abound along every waterfront in the world. Many novels have been written based on the lives of men and women struggling with themselves and nature in third world waterfront locations. Here in this island city surrounded by rivers, in the midst of the jungle, three degrees south of the equator, there is a crowd of characters modeling for their role in my novel.

Every character has a story waiting to be told, or in some cases being repeated over and over to whoever will listen. Some of the best tales are hinted at but left untold. Some cannot go back, and the trail forward is obscured by dense jungle shadows. A few are fugitives from justice, others fugitives from their past lives. All are trying to do the best their characters will allow.

How did they get here? Why did they stay? What will they do now? What next?

How will Mike Collins, the main character and the editor of the Iquitos Bugle, help the street children and those in need: “Hi. I am Mad Mick, oldest and largest paper boy in the world. Welcome to paradise. Would you like a copy of the Bugle? It’s free.”

Jarard is the antagonist, and owner of The Flowers of the Amazon, better known as The Red Rose, a house of ill repute near the ports: “Hi, I am Jarard. Keep those little bastards away from my place or I’ll shock the shit out of them with a cattle prod.”

Richard Ryan is Jarard’s mysterious accomplice.

The Cobbler is a gringo shaman, apprentice to a master curandero. He learns the secrets of how to cure cancer and diabetes using a recipe of plant extracts from the tropical rainforest.

Juaneco is a jungle guide and hustler, blessed with 7 pretty daughters and three granddaughters: “Hola, I am Juaneco. I am a jongle guied. I cry when Jarard steal my customers. Ef there es anyting you need, you ask me. Tha’s one dollor pleese.”

Ahara, Mike’s faithful sidekick.

Urie, creative street hustler. Mad Mick turned his name into a verb. His clients are never hustled, they are Uried.

Maukoo, jungle guide, professionalle: “Hi, I’m Maaaukcoooooo. You ever eat monkey? It’s delicious. Tastes like human.”

My character is the as yet unnamed narrator who inserts himself into the dialogue whenever it pleases him.

If you have any suggestions or comments, please help this creative process. Thanks.

The Characters of Iquitos Peru

Bill Grimes, Welcome to Iquitos Peru, Dawn on the Amazon

January 17, 2007

How the Amazon Golf Club Was Stolen

Filed under: The Amazon Golf Club — Captain Bill @ 10:20 pm

Amazon Golf Club club house under construction Amazon Golf Club

How the Amazon Golf Club Was Stolen

Mike Collis the editor of the Iquitos Times had the dream. He exploded out of his chair while watching CNN, “We can build the first golf course ever in the Peruvian Amazon.”

Leo Jones shouted from the bar, “You are mad, Mick.” Mike is also the owner of Mad Mick’s Trading Post and Bunkhouse.

Fate cursed me for being there at that moment in time, January 24th, 2004. For reasons that I forget now, I volunteered to be the first share holder.

I remember Mike said, “I didn’t know you liked golf.”

“I don’t like golf and I don’t like people who play golf,” I joked, and we laughed as I gave him my investment money to buy the first share of the Amazon Golf Club. Nothing has happened since that day to change my opinion of golf or golfers.

Marmelita was furious with me when I proudly told her of my brilliant investment. “Now Sugrita, this share could be worth a lot of money some day.” She is a smart young woman, and I wish with all my heart that I had taken her advice and demanded my money back. I always knew it would be a risky investment, and I knew there was a good chance I would lose my money, but I never dreamed that some varmints would steal it.

Ryan Richards offered to rent us 10 hectares of land where he squatted, on the outskirts of the city. It was 99 % jungle. We arrived at a mutually agreeable price, but Ryan did not have title to the land, so there could be no long term lease agreement. We proceeded in good faith, but I always questioned why Ryan did not take steps to get a clear title of the land.

This story is not about the building of the golf course, although that is an interesting subject. No one had ever built a golf course in theAmazon Golf Club green 2, sponsored by Dawn on the Amazon Amazon jungle, and the difficulty that presented can hardly be underestimated. If that is not bad enough, none of us had ever built a golf course anywhere and our ignorance could hardly be overestimated. A lot of the early work was trial and error, with emphasis on the error. Some implied that they could have done better with less. That is fine, maybe they could have, but they did not. The nine hole course, with a difficult par 5, and a couple of par 4s is turning out to be better than I imagined, but that is not this story.

This story is about how the Amazon Golf Club, Mad Mick’s dream, was stolen. Of the original 62 founding investors, only 7 are now considered to be members. All of the rest of us have been disenfranchised. I accept some responsibility. I was preoccupied building my boats, and then building my new business, while the weasels watched the hen house.

I do not believe my friend Mike Collis will be mad at me for stating the obvious. Mike’s strength is the “bright idea” followed by promoting that idea. Managing the details should best be left to the managers. Unfortunately the managers were busy on other projects of their own and Mike was in a hurry. It would take a long time to build a golf course. Grass only grows fast when you do not want it to.

We should have hired a lawyer, but we didn’t. The Amazon Golf Club was set up as a non-profit organization, but the shares were sold as an investment that could be resold for a profit. That was the detail. If we had hired a lawyer, he could have advised us to change the constitution of the club from a non-profit to a for-profit club. It would have cost less than $100 and all 62 founding members could be happy.

First the club was hijacked from the investors. A resolution was passed that only members who play golf that live in Iquitos could be on the board of directors. There were 8 members that fit that requirement and 7 board member positions to fill. Castro could not have better job security. The other 55 investors were told not to worry, the hen house is secure.

Shortly after commandeering the club, a secret meeting was called for board members only. No letters of notification were necessary for the other members, because at this point it was declared there were only seven members, the board of directors. Signatures were forged, documents falsified, officials bribed, lies told, the club was dissolved. Gerald Mayeaux was named the liquidator of the clubs assets. The club was declared to have no assets. The coup d’état was complete.

Or is it? Are we going to let the weasels get away with stealing our Amazon Golf Club? Hell no we are not! We already tried persuasion. We already tried diplomacy. You can not reason with a weasel. Who knows what a weasel thinks?

Several of us have hired two lawyers who agree, everything that has been done by the weasels is illegal. We will pursue the varmints in the legal system of Peru to the Supreme Court if necessary. If any of you reading this, particularly the other 50 investors from 14 countries, would like to help, we can use all the help we can get.

Anyone who would like to tell their version of this story can do so by clicking the comment link below.

How the Amazon Golf Club Was Stolen

Bill Grimes, Welcome to Iquitos Peru, Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

Muerto

Filed under: Amazon River Stories — Captain Bill @ 3:15 pm

Is He Dead?

“Es él Muerto?”

I jump out of my seat and gape at a Peruano man standing in his canoe in the rain. I brush mosquitoes from my face. I thought mine was the only boat around for miles, but here’s this man in a canoe pointing to the front of my boat.

“Es él Muerto?” he says again.

He looks worried. He’s standing in the rain in his canoe, pointing. It’s not just any kind of rain, either. It’s rainforest rain. It’s coming down harder and faster than you’ve ever seen rain. It’s thick. It has sound. It’s coming down so hard, it hits the surface with such a splash, it’s like it’s raining up. I look to the front of my boat, to Mark laying on the fishing platform in his raingear. Rain bouncing up off him.

Where I am, in the relative dryness under the thatched roof by the wheel, are a million mosquitoes, buzzing about their good fortune of shelter and food. I’m doing my best to put mind over matter, to kind of hum at a frequency sympathetic to theirs and confuse them enough to stop the frenzy. I’ve always tried to make a point of ignoring them and going about my business. It is not working.

There didn’t have to be mosquitoes. Really. It depends on the water. Black, tannic acid, no mosquitoes. Clear sweet water, Deet won’t do it. When we were back in Iquitos planning the trip, we knew this, but we wanted to come here. We packed the boat, threw the chickens on the roof, and took off. We meandered around adventurously and wound up here, with a guy standing in the rain in his canoe pointing to Mark, laying on the fishing platform in his raingear to escape the mosquito fest under the thatching.

“Hey, Mark,” I call. “What’s muerto mean?”

Mark sits up on the platform. “I don’t know. Dead, I think,” he says. “Why?”

I look back out at the rain falling in an unbroken curtain, like looking out from behind a waterfall, no sign of the Peruano man or the canoe. “No reason,” I say. I brush at the mosquitoes.

Is He Dead?

Bill Grimes,  Welcome to Iquitos PeruDawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

January 16, 2007

The Dawn on the Amazon Photo Album at Flickr

Filed under: Dawn on the Amazon — Captain Bill @ 7:32 am

The Dawn on the Amazon Photo Album at Flickr

I have created an online photo album of 300 photos, culled from thousands, of my boats and the upper Amazon rainforest of Peru. If you are interested enough to have come to my Captain’s Blog, I think you will enjoy visiting the link below. The photos there tell part of my story. You can see them at http://www.flickr.com/photos/dawnontheamazon/.

Baby Pygmy Marmoset, the smallest monkeyWhat I am most proud of about the photo album is it shows I have experienced a lot these last two years. Sometimes it seems I spend all of my time at the computer.

The first camera I owned was a Canon SLR 35 mm with the standard 50 mm lens. I bought it used from a fellow Marine whose tour of duty in Vietnam was ending. My tour was not ending any time soon. I carried that heavy camera around through two monsoons and the 1967-68 Tet offensive. A lot happened. Few cameras ever got wetter, muddier, or banged around more than that Canon. As my tour of duty wound down, I gave it to another Marine. The few rolls of film that survived amazed me.

Stateside, I remembered how that Canon survived the monsoons and the war, and it never entered my mind to get anything but another Canon. The second Canon still worked 20 years later. I switched to one of the first Canon Elphs to travel light through Mexico, island hop the South Pacific, backpack central Africa, go down under, and on my first visit to the Amazon Jungle. The photos I took of the Mayan ruins at Palenque and Uxmal, the Inca ruins at Machu Picchu, and when I was too close to the mountain gorillas in Uganda, are great, but the Elph could not reach out and capture the leopard up the tree with the antelope carcass, the cheetah cubs nursing, or the flock of macaws squawking overhead.

For three years I over-obsessed on shooting video with a couple of Sony camcorders. My buddy Mark and I adventured the Amazon watershed and rainforest ruining more video than most people ever shot. I eventually distilled over 60 hours of tape into three, one-hour DVDs. They would have been better as two. A single one hour DVD would have been even better. If it is hand held, zoomed, or shot from a boat or while walking, edit it out, and edit out most everything else. My rule of thumb for every one hour of unedited video is to keep three minutes to show your family, two minutes to show your best friends, and one minute of high quality video to be proud of.

When I started a web site, http://www.dawnontheamazon.com/, I reconfirmed what I already knew, that still images taken from video are not high enough quality. I needed to get back to high resolution photography. My first digital still camera was a Nikon D-70. I was never happy with the results, and it self-destructed on the 367th day. Now I have come full circle back to a Canon 30-D and a digital Elph. I am enjoying photography again.

The Dawn on the Amazon Photo Album at Flickr

Bill Grimes, Welcome to Iquitos Peru, Dawn on the Amazon Tours and Cruises

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